Fancy X Farmhouse Style Table from Pine // How to Build - Woodworking
Welcome to the WoodShaped channel. Making unique wood pieces in Georgetown, KY - Watch me make this Farmhouse table.
I started out on sketch up to get the exact dimensions for the project and it made a huge difference when starting to cut down the pieces. I usually measure and create on the fly which can sometimes be beneficial but for this build I wanted the detail given the short time line. This farmhouse table was purely big box store lumber to keep the costs down. Legs were made from douglas fir and the rest was pine because we all know that Pine is Fine. The milling process was very intensive just because there was so much of it but given that it’s a soft wood it did go quickly there were just a ton of pieces to mill. I started with the legs by getting all the lumber cut to length and started shaping the X pattern.
I recruited my son to help in milling the table top. I’m starting to get used to gluing up large table tops so I was not intimidated by this step, there were just several stages of glue ups so that I could keep the flatness.
After a successful glue up i went to working on additional flattening and I love pulling out my hand plane for this.
Once flat I took my track saw and cut the ends nice and flush for the bread board end joinery.
For the bread board ends, I honestly struggled with how I was going to attach these given that the opposing grain patterns could cause wood movement which is typically inherent with a bread board end design and all I had to work with was the biscuit joiner. I did cut my slots larger for some movement and I was very strategic with my glue placement and in addition I had some tight biscuits on both sides for proper movement.
There is often a lot of fuss over wood movement and I’m a believer out of experience but most of the techniques to prevent movement are intended for longitudinal movement even though it is only .01% of movement so the edges of the bread board are not much of a concern. It’s the tangential and radial movements that worry me those being the most significant depending on the cut of the wood. The largest movement you would see out of a bread board is that it may eventually cup slightly for plain sawn lumber which is what I used. A lot of the bread board designs will still not account for most tangential wood movement. In the example of a tenon, gluing the middle tenon will still cause resistance in the tangential direction and the left and right sides may start to separate.
Even though not 100% preventable, If do use the mortise and tenon technique then go check out John Malecki’s bread board end tutorial. It’s spot on. Do you research on the wood cut to ensure proper wood movement in your design. Message me for questions.
One the table top was done, I moved on to epoxy and finish
If you use mortise and tenon joinery go check out John's video.
Bread Board End Tutorial by John Malecki: https://youtu.be/fW4AVb2XDMk
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► TOOLS USED:
Big Horn Push Stick: https://amzn.to/2Euniti
Milwaukee M18 Fuel Drill/Driver Combo with One Key: https://amzn.to/2pIhV1A
Makita Track Saw:
Makita Orbital Sander: https://amzn.to/2A2zVcW
Bessey 24 in. K Body REVOlution (KRE) Parallel Clamp
Bessey 50 in. K Body REVOlution Parallel Clamp
Bessey H Style Pipe Clamp:
TiteBond II - Wood Glue: https://amzn.to/2XeZ4KW
WoodPeckers Precision Woodworking tools 1281R Woodworking square - https://amzn.to/2jZYBKp
FastCap Glu-Bot Glue Bottle (16 Ounces) - https://amzn.to/2KrSxFo
Wood Is Good Mallets: