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Jewelry Box made from Butternut and Walnut // How To - Woodworking

Jewelry Box made from Butternut and Walnut // How To - Woodworking

Just so you are clear, my goal with this project was to stretch myself, get out of my comfort zone and do precision, fine woodworking. Did I make mistakes, absolutely I did so as beautiful as the piece looks in the end, don’t be fooled, you can make it if you set your mind to it. That being said if the wood looks familiar, it is, this is left over offcuts from the Coffee table. Beautiful figured butternut, a huge statement for a jewelry box build. 

I decided to do box joints for the corners, my first time trying these and it was definitely trial and error but I created a cross cut sled specifically for this purpose, that and making dovetails. 

After cutting the box joints not the table saw, I scored the edges with a marking gauge. You will definitely want to do this on any type of joinery where you need to chisel out on a distinct line, it keeps the wood from tearing out beyond the chisel line. I picked this up from the wood whisper jewelry box guild project, so many valuable tips in Marc’s projects. A wealth of knowledge. You’ll see me do this as well on the dovetails later on.

For the box panel joinery I went with a simple rabbet for all panels. Here I’m debating on how to get the rabbet into the side box panel and I almost attempted to do it with the wood flat on the workbench but I knew this wouldn’t end well. I tried routing the piece directly on the router base using the edge guide but it was really too small to be accurate and I had a little tear out but not enough to ruin the piece. I really needed a router table of sorts but I’ve yet to build my router table. I was already planning to build the Samurai Carpenter router base jig and I had already purchased my plexiglass and now was as good a time as any to build the jig. I just clamped my square to the base and it worked perfectly for routing my rabbet channels.

I really like how the back box panel turned out with the book matched design. You’ll see how stunning this in the end.

Another tip from Marc’s project was the detail that goes to creating the gaps in drawers using shims. I learned so much during this process and I am honestly excited to do more drawers after the successes in this project. 

After making my lines on the pieces for dovetails I put my table saw blade at the 12.5 degrees and cut the dovetails. This process made them very very clean as well as made for a superb fit. 

For the drawer slides I cut a dado slot and placed a walnut slide on the sides after measuring for exactness and drawer front gap symmetry. I finagled the slides to come up with the perfect fit for the drawers, not too loose but loose enough to prevent any catching when closing them. 

The drawer sides received a dado to fit the drawer slides.

Once I had all the pieces ready, next came glue up and final adjustments to fit.

Believe it or not, I almost did not go with this curved leg design for this box but after seeing that first leg on there I was blown away, it changed the game for the aesthetics and took this box to the next level. 

After trimming the legs slightly i twas time for finish. I chose what I’ve been choosing for a lot of project lately. Real Milk Paint Pure Tung oil. I just really like applying this stuff, while it does take some time for it to cure I love the results and it has a nice nutty smell to it. 

For the final touch I applied a small amount of wax onto the draw dados and drawer slides. 

The box was finally done! 

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Wood River No 6 Bench Plane:

Makita Cordless Router:

Freud Spiral Bit:

Big Horn Push Stick:

Milwaukee M18 Fuel Drill/Driver Combo with One Key:

Makita Orbital Sander:

Bessey 24 in. K Body REVOlution (KRE) Parallel Clamp:

Kreg Clamp AutoMaxx:

TiteBond II - Wood Glue:

WoodPeckers Precision Woodworking tools 1281R Woodworking square -

FastCap Glu-Bot Glue Bottle (16 Ounces) -

iGaging AccuMarking Gauge:

Real Milk Paint Pure Tung Oil:

Wood Is Good Mallets:




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